Monday, October 13, 2014

Camry Ignition Tip

Like any other locksmith technician in the area more than one time, an ignition I have serviced or have been trying to install, has fit into the housing on the column pretty tight, sometimes that much that I would have to force it in. The situation creates two problems, one of which I understand, the other I am not yet certain of. It is a fact that the tight fit of the ignition will cause some issues removing it at a later time. This situation for some reason will also cause the warning buzzer to go off non stop once the driver's side door is open, as if there were a key in the ignition even if there is not.

I can't fully understand the reason for that, but I suspect it got something to do with the ignition not being seated properly within the housing. The solution is fairly easy and simple if you have a razor blade available. Observe the ignition with the word LOCK on the face at the 12 o'clock position. At the 9 o'clock position on the side of the ignition you will find a small flat piece of rubber, running horizontally alongside the lock body. This particular rubber piece which most of the time will cause the ignition to have a tight fit and ultimately cause the key buzzer to go off randomly.

If you use a good razor blade and you have the patient, you can shave off layers of the rubber piece until the ignition will seat properly without being compressed inside the housing, or with a flat head screwdriver, the rubber piece can just be removed all together. This will solve the issue and the ignition could be inserted smoothly and will not cause any problems with the key buzzer going off randomly.

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Monday, October 6, 2014

Chrysler Ignition Tip

Concerning the removal of  Strattec Ignition from various Dodges, Jeeps, Chryslers and Saturns, many locksmith technicians that I came in contact with seem to have an issue with this type of ignition. The following method I will describe will not damage the ignition, although it is recommended to be careful not to lose the active retainer, so you can use this technique whether the ignition is damaged or not. The following tools would be needed to get the job done such as ice-pick and a pair of pliers, the locking type preferred.

A spring steel plate holds in the active retainer on this style of lock from the exterior.The shape of the plug found in it will prevent from from pushing the retainer in unless the cylinder is turned, but the way the retainer pin is places there is its weakness.

First, the lower part of the column shroud will need to be removed, and possibly the panel underneath the column as well. Once removed, the active retainer will need to be located and then insert your ice pick alongside the Pin. Tilt the ice pick in such a way as to pull the retainer pin and out of the hole. While this is done, grab the pin with the pliers and pull down by jerking it a little bit. The pin should pull free of the flimsy spring steel fork holding it in place, and the ignition will now be safe to be removed with little to no resistance. From there, the ignition can be replaced or an access hole would need to be drilled for the sidebar where the lock can be picked and then fit a key.

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